Paris, often called the City of Love, is easily the most romanticized city across the globe, where beautiful fantasies are supposed to manifest in everything which we otherwise find mundane in any other urban conglomerate. It is also a city which divides opinion, you either hate the Hausmannian symmetry or fall in love with it. I was personally intrigued and charmed by this carefully curated architecture when we visited Paris back in 2023. It is difficult not to be awed by the sheer beauty of the main city. However, as with the history of any city, every present bears its past, and behind every prominent façade lie hidden closets that are rarely noticed or discussed. Edmund White in his book The Flaneur – A Stroll Through the Paradoxes of Paris discusses the remnants of a past which are markedly different from what Paris is today while bringing to light the stories of various colorful social fabric which exists beyond the symmetrical beauty Hausmann constructed. Of course, the book is slightly dated, first published in 2001 but still is a captivating account of various cultures which have flourished in Paris. This book is a wonderful commentary on cultural evolution of Paris and a travelogue at the same time. Perfect pick if you are a traveler and love your history.
“Paris… is a world meant for the walker alone, for only the pace of strolling can take in all the rich (if muted) detail”
About Edmund White and the Concept of Flânerie
Of course, it was the charm of Paris that made me pick up this book, Edmund White, the author, was purely incidental. However, as you turn the pages, you realize that this is no ordinary piece of writing. Each chapter is a beautiful amalgamation of interesting, and probably forgotten, nuggets from this city’s past, blended with his own keen observations during the time he spent living in Paris. You also realize that he was a prominent gay writer who had produced significant work in helping reshape the narrative when coming out was still considered dangerous.
He introduces the concept of flânerie “the act of aimless strolling, idleness, or lounging in an urban environment, with the associated practice of observing and engaging with the city’s details.” This probably is the epitome of French romanticism and something I imagine is not possible in today’s world. The term comes from the French verb flâner, meaning to stroll, wander, or dawdle, and was elevated by writers like Charles Baudelaire from mere idleness to an artistic practice of observation and commentary on modern life. In 19th-century Paris, the flâneur had become a new type of urban dweller who had the time to walk the streets, observe public spaces, and engage with the life unfolding around them. In this book, White sheds light on these original flâneurs while exploring various themes — all the while establishing that he himself was one during his years in Paris.
Viewing Paris from the Eye of a Flâneur
The joy of being a flâneur is what White brings to the table when he talks about Paris. He reflects on how it has always been a Parisian trait to sit back and be a laid-back observer, something perhaps incomprehensible to the more action-oriented American society he came from. This may be the reason why people watching while sitting outdoors at a Parisian café is considered a quintessential pastime.
During his 16 years in Paris, White made observations that were both intricate and insightful. He brings to focus cultures that exist beyond the well-documented and glamorous brochures of the city. These details could only have been captured by someone who had stepped back and watched as the city continued to move. At the same time, he ventures through stories from the city’s history and shows how, beyond the uniformity of central Paris, there exists a multiculturalism that has brewed over time, shaped and nurtured by the city’s benevolent nature.
He explores how Paris welcomed African Americans when they faced segregation in their own land, told through stories of figures like Sidney Bechet and Josephine Baker. He comments on how Jews became assimilated into the city’s fabric. He also highlights how homosexuality was viewed, much more favorably, from what I could gather through his anecdotes, in those times in Paris. Through his snippets about various cafés, museums, and local markets, many of which are lesser known, he portrays a different side of Paris, a side that can only be appreciated by a true flâneur.
Edmund White, while recounting his version of Paris, is both witty and poetic, making this book a calm and soothing read, one you can enjoy with a glass of wine or a cup of coffee. Of course, the views are his own so you may agree or disagree.
Next when you travel be a flaneur and if you have travelled to Paris what did you observe which was uniquely Parisian ?
